Moules Frites (or A Return from Kitchen Exile)

First breakfast, and now a lunch in a new house. It's a slow work up to making a dinner, but now that I'm just about settled in a dish that involved deep frying on a stove without any type of ventilation seemed like an appropriate way to check out what it'd be like to clean up a little bit of a mess.

Regarding mussels, years ago I spent about five months in the Netherlands. Those mussel connoisseurs were pretty serious about only eating mussels in months that have an "r" in them. While that policy seems more relevant with certain oysters that don't seem to improve in warm water, it stuck for me, so I loosely abide by it.

Making the mussels was pretty simple, starting with a quick trip to Kate's Fish at the West Side Market, where I was reminded how economical a choice mussels are. When I got them home I melted a bunch of butter (Stutzman Herdshare) in a cast iron pan along with some minced shallot from the garden. When that was all hot and fragrant I added the mussels and a bunch of basil leaves. The pan was covered, occasionally shaken, and taken off the heat when all the mussels opened up (they all opened). It smelled wonderful. In an effort to get out from under a mountain of tomatoes I meant to throw some diced tomato into the mix, but it was not meant to be. While I think they would have been a nice addition, they weren't particularly missed.

The mussels were dumped into a bowl with some toasted baguette. Another unremarkable baguette picked up on the West Side of Cleveland. It wasn't poisonous, but wasn't what it could be. The toasting helped though.

And the frites, made while preparing the mussels. Julienned garden fingerlings twice fried in duck fat in a wok. The wok is great for deep frying small quantities of foods using a minimal amount of fat. I cooked the potatoes in hot fat until they lost some moisture, removed them with a spider onto a plate lined with a paper towel, and then fried them again, removing them from the fat when they were crispy and quickly seasoned them with salt. Next to try them with some horse fat, or more likely, rendered beef suet (tallow).

Clean up was a breeze, and I think the Benelux folks would respect this rendition of their dish. Hopefully the basil didn't hurt anyone's feelings.

Procrastinating

Eggs over easy, melon balls, toast, and bacon, not necessarily in that order.

It's not often I get to use the melon baller. I got the tool to easily remove seeds from apples and pears, so this kind of thing is just a bonus. Melon was on the brain after being treated to a wonderful melon/honey/olive oil cake dish at Bar Cento along with Maybelle's Parents. It reminded me of a super rich bread pudding, but was very different. The unexpected, but welcome, run-in with the Parents reminded me that there are advantages of being in smaller city, particularly this one. There are more than enough decent places to eat to stave off boredom, but the universe is small enough that there's always a good chance that you can wander into a place and find some good company and people that really enjoy good food.

The bacon is part of my quest to find the best bacon in the area. This stuff was from a processor in Fredericktown, OH. They use Ohio pigs. It was very good and toothsome, but a little pork steaky for my tastes. Maybe it was just the thick cut? For me, I've yet to have anything here or elsewhere that rivals the bacon from Country Gristmill (available at the Shaker Farmers Market, summer and winter). It's takes some attention during cooking, but I think the results are worth it. I'll admit though, that despite my love of smoking and things smoked I've yet to dabble with the ubiquitous trend of making bacon at home. It's bound to happen, but getting a happy pig's belly around here isn't as easy as it should be. It'll happen soon enough.

The eggs, as always, are from Plum Creek. Unless I get a few chicken of my own, there's no other choice for me. The butter for frying them and for the toast is raw milk butter from a cow-share I participate in.

A decent start for a day that should be filled with crating things for my imminent move. If you read this blog and are sick of hearing about it, I assure you I am sicker of mentioning it and am more than ready to move to my mini-orchard in the shadow of Franklin Avenue. Hopefully the next entry will be typed from there.

Those Dutch people make good sauce

It may look like cheez whiz, but it's not. It's a hollandaise, and the rich color is a result of Plum Creek Poultry's incredible eggs (available at the Shaker Square and Crocker Park farmers markets) with their ridiculously vibrant yolks. Who would have thought pale yolks have their place? Either that or my technique's off, which is quite possible.

The steak is from MillGate Farms (if you're at the Crocker Market Farmstead Ltd. has great grass fed beef), and it's the other part of a porterhouse that yielded the strip steak from the last post. The asparagus is is also from the Market, and cooked the same way as described in the last post (if it ain't broke . . .). These spears were Morton's sized. If you're not familiar with that reference, I don't think you're missing out, but these were some seriously huge, and seriously good, asparagus spears.

All good ingredients, but it's kind of cheating to use a hollandaise. The stuff is too good. After I finished the pictured plate it took all of my limited self control to avoid eating the leftover sauce by the spoonful. Here's the recipe:

Ingredients:
- Egg yolks (I always use at least two--it's tricky with one. The whites freeze well.)
- Butter, pieces or melted (There are proper ratios, but I just stop adding butter when I like how it tastes. This was the previously mentioned French butter from The Cheese Shop at the West Side Market.)
- Water (you may want to thin the sauce--water works well)
- Salt and pepper
- Cayenne (just a little)
- Lemon juice, or, gasp!, vinegar (I used white wine vinegar here. Lemon juice is better, but no lemons over here today).

Method:
- I always make this in a home rigged double boiler. There are lots of other ways to make this sauce, but I've always had good luck this way.
- Bring a small pot of water to a slow simmer
- Whisk egg yolks in a stainless steel or glass bowl that will fit on top of the simmering pot (the bottom of the pan should not dip into the simmering water)
- Once yolks are whisked, place the bowl over the pot of hot water and whisk steadily until the eggs get a thicker consistency (It may be necessary to keep lifting the bowl off of the simmering water to prevent the eggs from scrambling. You may want to use a dish towel for handling the bowl. Scrambled eggs in a hollandaise is not good.)
- After the yolks have thickened start incorporating the butter piece by piece (or slowly pour in melted butter a little at a time)
- Keep whisking and don't let the eggs scramble. If using pieces of butter add a new piece just as the previous one is melting away.
- When the sauce is a good consistency and tastes about right butter-wise, season with salt and pepper, a little cayenne, and acid (citrus juice or vinegar) to taste--it doesn't take much
- That's it. It holds pretty well if kept over the pot of hot water with the flame turned off (just make sure to stir occasionally), although it may thicken up a bit after a while (just thin with water, remembering it's always easier to add more than to take extra out). It also keeps well on a stovetop that's hot from the oven being on.

It's not a tough sauce to make, and it looks much better in person.

Another angle (still looks like cheez whiz):

Can't be local all the time

A rainy day at the Shaker Market led to an impromptu trip to Gallucci's, an Italian import shop on the east side of Cleveland. The place is great with one of the most knowledgeable staffs out of any food place I've ever been to, even if they didn't know what bottarga (botargo) was. Don't let the Euclid construction put you off, just get on Carnegie and look for a small sign for the back entrance between E 69 and 65.

I picked up some bread, ridiculously good porchetta, and San Daniele prosciutto at Gallucci's. You can see alternating slices, starting with the porchetta on the left, pictured above. I dressed the bread with some Zinfandel/Thyme jelly from the Crocker Park Farmers Market and some French butter from The Cheese Shop, a place definitely worth stopping by when you're at the West Side Market.

That wine pictured above is courtesy of The Flying Fig, a restaurant discussed here all the time. and 55 Degrees, an Ohio wine distributor that, unfortunately, does not do retail sales. If you see a wine dinner that they're associated with I'd recommend going if you're a drinker. Last Wednesday they couldn't decide which of two wines to pair with the duck course at The Fig. Their answer, serve them both.

The sandwich was very good, although if I was doing it again I'd lay the slices out rolled thinly and going the long way, like sardines packed side by side. That way each bite would yield equal parts cooked and cured pork, both of which are delicious in their own right.

Spelt Flour Pancakes

As good as regular pancakes. This is a slightly revised recipe from one I got off the web quite some time ago. There are a lot of good pancake recipes out there, along with a bunch of not so good ones. This one works for me.

Ingredients:
- Buttermilk, 1 cup (I used 2% milk mixed with a little lemon juice.)
- Egg, 1
- Flour, 1 cup
- Baking Powder, 2 tsp
- Baking Soda, 1/2 tsp
- Sugar, 1 tbs
- Fat, 1 tbs (I used a light olive oil. The recipe calls for melted butter.)
- Salt, pinch
- Butter (for greasing pan or griddle)
- Butter and Maple Syrup (for enjoying the finished product)

Method:
- Preheat pan or griddle
- Mix dry ingredients
- Add wet ingredients to the dry ones
- Whisk everything together briefly leaving the batter lumpy
- Add butter to hot pan/griddle/skillet
- Pour batter on the hot pan (I use a 1/2 cup measuring cup to keep batter distribution somewhat even and neat.)
- Once bubbles appear on the uncooked surface of the pancakes flip them (Also, if the part of the pancake on the pan is darkening too quickly lower the heat and flip.)
- If making a bunch they can be kept warm in a 200 degree oven (And the oven can be used to heat the syrup at the same time.)

I trust the recipe and instructions were likely not necessary, but I'm snowed in, so I had the time. They're good.

Cuisine Soignee, or Cooking With Care

Not so much, but naming what's on the plate would be a bit long for the title line. Arctic Char with Barley/Shiitake Risotto and Rosemary Infused Blood Orange Beurre Blanc. "Risotto" and "Beurre Blanc," however, may be misnomers. There's no rice in the risotto, and this beurre blanc doesn't contain any shallots, nor is it blanc, obviously. But regardless of the looseness of the aforementioned culinary terms, the meal was good, and the components will show up again in my future meals.

A few things before the recipe. First, Arctic Char is proof that not all farmed fish are bad--the folks at Monterey Bay approve. This piece came from my standard fish monger, at Kate's Fish in the Westside Market. Second, the idea for the barley risotto came from here. Check out the second video. And due to the food co-op, there's no shortage of grains around here. Third, the shiitakes. They're from these fine folks--Killbuck Valley Mushrooms--who make the weekly trek to sell their wares at the Indoor Winter Market. That covers that. Here's the recipe:

Barley/Shiitake Risotto
Ingredients:
-Barley
-Shiitake caps, big dice
-Shallots, dice
-Butter
-Olive Oil
-Stock, kept near a boil (I used duck, but any would do)
-Salt and Pepper
-Chives, little batons (optional--I wouldn't have used them if they weren't laying around)
-White wine
Method:
- Slowly saute shiitakes in butter
- As the shiitakes are cooking, season with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil
- When shiitakes are to your liking set them aside
- Sweat shallots in butter
- When shallots are sweated, add barley and stir well
- Add some white wine to the shallots and barley and cook it down
- Now add stock to the mixture and cook like you would any risotto (here's my post on the subject)
- When it's close to where you want it add mushrooms and stop adding liquid
- Once it's how you're going to serve it, season with salt and pepper and stir in the chives (I didn't add additional butter because the stock I used wasn't skimmed, so there was plenty of fat in there. No cheese because I'm generally not a cheese with fish kind of person.)

Arctic Char
Ingredients:
- Arctic Char, fillet
- Butter
- Oil, for high heat
- Salt and pepper
Method:
- I rinsed and dried the fillet--some people skip this step
- Salt and pepper the fillet, both sides
- Heat up a pan (I used nonstick) with some butter and oil
- Once the pan and fats are hot, add fish flesh side down
- When the flesh side has some color, flip the fish
- Cook on the skin side until cooked through (The skin should get crispy.)

Rosemary Infused Blood Orange Beurre Blanc
Ingredients:
- Blood Orange, juice (Typing this now I kind of wish I used just a bit of the zest too.)
- White Wine
- Rosemary, small sprig
- Butter, pieces (for a small amount of sauce I used around a quarter stick of butter cut in four or five pieces)
- Salt and pepper
Method:
- Add equal parts juice and white wine to a small sauce pan (a few tbs of each) with the Rosemary sprig (traditionally minced shallots would be included here)
- Reduce the juice and wine over pretty high heat (with the sprig in there) until there's just a little left and it's syrupy
- Remove Rosemary sprig and discard
- Lower heat as much as possible and whisk in butter pieces one at a time, waiting for one piece to incorporate before adding the next
- Once all the butter is incorporated season with salt and pepper
- If the sauce is too thick for your liking thin with a drop of water
- To hold the sauce put it on a burner that's as low as possible, whisking occasionally
- If you're really worried about the sauce separating add a small drop of cream when the juice and wine are reducing to stabilize the sauce, but with so little butter (comparatively) this sauce is pretty sturdy

This is a nice meal on a cold winter day. The mushrooms go very well with the barley, and the somewhat rich and bright sauce complements the char well. The sauce looks a bit cornstartchy in the picture--I think it's the lighting--but the color was very nice.

Fall weather fare

I'm on the grass-fed bandwagon. While the butcher could likely have done a better job preparing this cut (Not that I'd pay a price like this for a better trim job--the linked place's recommended recipe is nearly identical to the one I used. Good to see they would have approved.), the taste was great. I made sure to try some of the meat before the herby butter started commingling with the juices--it was some of the best flavored beef I've had. The flavor was clean and somewhat subtle, and the texture, aside from a thin line of gristle running through the steak, was chewy but in no way tough. This grass-fed beef doesn't require an acquired taste, it was just a great steak.

The compound butter was made with help from Google and James Peterson's Sauces. Because I grilled the steak a pan sauce wasn't really an option. After making this, I think I'll be using a lot more of these butters.

Also on the plate was most of a small, roasted butternut squash. It doesn't get much more fall than a grilled steak and winter squash.

Steak
Ingredients:
- Steak for grilling (A strip steak would have worked, same with a rib eye. Even though the flat iron is often compared to skirt and flank steaks, I don't think they are as good to serve/eat as a whole steak. If I were making tacos or a steak salad, I'd reach for the skirt or flank.)
- Olive oil, extra virgin
- Salt and pepper
Method:
- Get grill going
- Have steak dry and at room temperature
- Lightly coat steak with olive oil, and apply some salt and pepper
- Grill to taste and let rest

Squash
Ingredients:
- Butternut squash, halved, with some light slashes on skin side (seeds scooped out with a spoon*)
- Olive oil, extra virgin
- Salt and pepper (Is there a pattern here?)
- Butter
Method:
- Preheat oven between 425 and 450
- Rub squash halves with olive oil, and apply salt and pepper
- Place squash flat side up on a sheet of aluminum foil in the oven
- Cook until squash is soft when pierced with a fork or knife
- Remove from oven and scoop squash innards into a bowl
- Mash squash with a fork, and add salt and pepper and a small piece of butter
- Cover bowl to keep warm

Butter
Ingredients:
- Butter, unsalted and at room temperature
- Herbs, fresh (I used tarragon, chives, and parsley)
- Salt and pepper
Method:
- Blanch herbs in boiling salted water for about a minute
- Drain water and cool the herbs down with cold water
- Dry herbs as best you can and mince (if using the same herbs, omit the tarragon and parsley stems)
- Lay minced herbs out on a paper towel to dry further
- Mash butter in bowl (two forks work well)
- Add herbs, salt, and pepper, all to taste, to mashed butter
- When butter mixture is mixed will, place the blob on a piece of plastic wrap
- Use wrap to form a log of the butter--like a sausage
- Place log in fridge to reharden (the freezer works if you're in a rush)
- Slice as necessary

That's all there is to it. It's all pretty simple and the compound butter is great. There's another piece of the flat iron waiting, and some left over butter. All that's needed is a nice baguette and it should be one of the best steak sandwiches ever.

*Save the seeds for roasting.

And yes, that is a big pat of butter. I ate it all too, and it was good.